Date(s) - 01/08/2017
6:00 pm - 9:30 pm
North Wales Coast Rock Meets – Penmaenbach Quarry
Rock: Quarried hornfels.
Aspect: North west facing, sheltered.
Grades: F5+ – F8a
Routes: 13 in 2 sectors
This rather enigmatic venue features compact rock with excellent friction and the routes are suprisingly good. In recent years the lower quarry (where most of the routes are) has had a complete makeover. The original rusty bolts have been replaced, extra bolts have been installed due to high starting bolts and full lower-offs have been fitted throughout. The upper quarry offers some much longer and harder routes.
Guidebook: “A55 Sport Climbs”. Meet at car parking or at crag.
Rehydration afterwards at the old White House:
- Approach: Come off the A55 at junction 17 just west of the Conway tunnel. Turn right if coming from the west and left if coming from the east. Drive over the A55 and the railway bridge. Then, immediately where the road bends left, turn right and drive to the end of the road (a dead end and the old A55). Park in a lay-by at the end, just before the gate. Cross the stile into a quarry and head rightwards on the path, gently rising on a good path through bracken and gorse up the hillside to an incline, aiming for the obvious old winding house on the ridge. The track levels off at the winding house so keep on this level to reach the lower quarry after a few yards. The upper quarry can be reached by going up the next incline to the next level. Fifteen minutes from the parking.
Location Details: Penmaenbach Quarry