Date(s) - 11/06/2019
5:00 pm - 9:30 pm
😀 Rock: Natural limestone Aspect: South facing, sheltered. Sun all day through the trees. Grades: F3 – F6c+ Routes: 21
Approach: 15 minutes
Conditions: Sheltered in the trees and can be climbable throught the year. No particular seepage.
A very useful addition (particularly when the wind is blowing) to Castle Inn for the lower grade sport climber mainly, offering a selection of short (around 12m) climbs in a sheltered setting amongst the trees. Double bolt lower-offs are available for all routes.
Approach – important – do not use any other approach: From the east (Chester etc.): Come off the A55 expressway at Llanddulas (junction 23). Turn right at the roundabout by the filling station and then immediately left towards Old Colwyn (A547). Follow the road for 1 mile to just before the crest of the hill. Turn left up Highlands Road and park on the left where it levels out and becomes wider just after the fork right into Tan y Craig road (between the 2 limestone walls).
From the west (Llandudno etc.): Come off the A55 expressway at Old Colwyn (junction 22). Turn right under the expressway and soon turn left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas / Abergele (A547). After about 1.5 miles and after crest of the hill, turn right up Highlands Road and park on the left where it levels out and becomes wider just after the fork right into Tan y Craig road (between the 2 limestone walls).
Walk up the lane on the opposite side of the road next to the bungalow “Cartrefle” to come out on to Tan y Craig Road. Turn left and after 50 metres head right through wrought iron gates on a signposted public footpath through Ty Ucha farm. Go through the gate in the bottom of the farmyard and follow the wall around to the right to a metal gate. Follow the public footpath for about 300 metres to just before a wall and ladder stile then take a path right up to the crag. The access path arrives at the crag under the jutting overhangs of the route “The Gowling”.
The first route starts about 30m to the left of the access path at a clean buttress which has an obvious detatched pillar: